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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.